Ingredients in cosmetics: what they are for and what they do. The good, the bad and the ugly. Paragraph #1-Powders and Foundation products Useful information about the components in our powders and creams, their purpose and impact. This will be a series of posts about lineups and this is the first one.This post is not from a human chemist, without an evaluation opinion of course, just an informative review of compounds to expand your horizons, so to speak With this information, a person who does not know will be able to check their powder\cream\tonic for the percentage of nasties that a particular person reacts to, identify an allergen, or simply find out why so many incomprehensible words are written in the composition. I will focus on the components that are most common. I decided that the best option would be to divide by products, so as not to look for a tiny component in a long list of new words. A separate block will contain the most popular ingredients that can be found in any product. Uniquely bad ones will be highlighted, and the rest will be neutral by default. For convenience, the components will be repeated. A lot of letters. Ingredients in cosmetics: what they are for and what they do. The good, the bad and the ugly. Paragraph #1-Powders and Foundation products
So, until recently, I was visited by a panic in the choice of cosmetics. A small inflammation provoked nervous tremors and 5 new jars “for acne”, “for acne”, “for healthy skin”, etc. All this I smeared on myself with the lion's share, one on top of the other, on top of the mask. My face is patient, it took a lot of time to “finish” it, after which it bloomed in all its glory and I rushed to the cosmetologist with the words “I don't know what happened, it is itself such”. I was saved and everything was repeated. I dried my skin, burned it with folk remedies, smeared cans of concentrated vitamins... Needless to say, my head had no idea about the system in care. By the way, and it (the head) got. Once every two weeks I had the idea to recolor my hair urgently, I chose a shade that, of course, did not fit, then recoloring, then another... Until a friend once said “Oh, your hair is bad, probably it's from SLS. You heard, they wash tanks with them!”. Of course, from the SLS. There can be no other way. A long and tedious period of organic use has begun. I went with icicles on my head, then with a mega-fluffy mane... but naturally. This is how my interest in compounds began – with Laureth sulfate. Looking ahead, I will say that the shampoo I have now with SLS I'm not going to Change it, the others do not fit me (organic that is). To be continued...
Powder\Foundation\Makeup base\Concealers Acrylates copolymer is a binding agent that retains moisture and protects it from it. It is added to cosmetics to form a single mass. You can see it in hair products — it gives them volume, fixation, protects from moisture, antistatic. You can find it in almost all care products and decorative cosmetics. Allantoin-emollient, moisturizing, soothing. Regulates the sebaceous glands. Bisabolol — Bisabolol) – it is extracted from daisies, but there is also a synthetic form. Does not live in all powders. Anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antibacterial, wound healing, deodorizing, etc. Butylene Glycol (Butylene Glycol) — alcohol from the group of glycols, solvent, moisturizer, preservative, emulsifier, often used as an enhancer, i.e. it enhances the action of other components. Excellent moisture-retaining ability, regulates water balance, gives the skin a special softness. It can also be found in hair styling products. Glycerin (Glycerin) — softener, moisturizer and solvent. It can draw up to 40% of moisture from the air. Penetrates into the deep layers of the epidermis, in high concentrations gives a bactericidal effect. Titanium Dioxide-good bleaching, light-tight. Thanks to it, manufacturers can write the sun protection factor on their boxes. In addition, it can whiten the face, reduce skin irritation and hide its flaws. Also frequent guests in mineral cosmetics. Calcium Carbonate is an anti-caking component and separator. It allows us to see crumbly versions of cosmetics as crumbly, rather than a solid lump, but it is also a thickener and controls the pH. It can be found in toothpastes and food additives as a source of calcium. Collagen is a thing that allows manufacturers to create promising ads about the absence of wrinkles, skin tone, and so on. The truth is: collagen is a protein, in most creams its molecules are too large and do not penetrate the skin, creating a film on the surface that prevents the evaporation of water and clogs the pores. It is used as an advertising trick, but in fact it forms an air-tight, moisture-resistant layer with smoothing properties, prolongs the action of other components of cosmetics (oils and extracts), gives hair Shine and a protective film. Animal collagen clogs the pores. Non-hydrolyzed proteins do not penetrate into the deep layers of the skin to give eternal youth. Hydrolyzed ones interact with the skin and retain moisture in it. Lanolin is a fat-like substance obtained from the wool (sweat glands) of sheep. It is similar in composition to human skin fat. It can bind water, so it is useful for creating emulsions. It has a strong emollient effect on the skin, eliminates dryness, helps to maintain firmness and elasticity. Very rarely causes irritation. Mica (mica) — mica, gives a silky and elusive reflective effect. The more its particles, the more Shine we get on the face. Options from a light satin finish to sequins from Brazilian carnivals. It also controls the density of the product. Magnesium myristate (magnesium myristate) — improves the” grip “ of the base with the skin, is a binding element, gives the skin and cosmetics softness, and is also responsible for the sliding of the product and its shading and defocusing. It is a filler, disinfectant, absorbs sebum well. You can find it in almost any decoration, including mineral. Boron nitride is a frequent guest of mineral cosmetics. It is he who gives us a well-groomed face with an inner light. Iron oxides (Iron oxides) – dyes, in the list are designated by numbers. Propylene glycol-used in creams at a concentration of up to 6%. You can also find it in mascara, lipsticks, glosses, deodorants, and glosses. It is used as a solvent for many ingredients, is easily absorbed by the skin and is a moisture carrier. Silica is a smooth, silky powder used in cosmetics to control greasy Shine, makes the skin matte, smooth and visually younger, optically more even, is a filler and thickener. Silicones (– siloxane, – silanol, –silicon i — methicone) are resistant to UV, and micro-organisms do not eat them. Odorless, non-flammable and non-toxic.It is also a moisturizer, softener, binding agent, helps to create a uniform coating, because it creates a film on the skin, can Mat or give Shine, as well as reduce the allergenicity of other components. Improve the distribution of funds, sliding and uniformity. Let's focus on the most popular: Cetearyl methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone, Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone.
And which are full of all the Foundation creams\bases\bases. You can't argue with that — silicones make your face look wonderful. Whatever problems you have, silicones will fix everything: peeling, uneven tone, uneven texture... My favorite tonal mousse is entirely made of silicone. I've barely cheated on him for 8 years. And take the popular BB-peach tea, also with a wild composition, it suffocates my skin.
Salt (Sodium chloride) – used for viscosity. Zinc stearate — due to its softness and “sliding” properties, it is used in powder as a filler, as well as as an emulsifier and structure-forming agent in creams. Talc (talc) — refers to fillers, it is thanks to it that we open the powder, we see a smooth surface with the manufacturer's brand name and then the same face (without the manufacturer's mark, of course); gives the powder fluidity, “sliding” properties, but has a small covering ability. It is used in compositions up to 50-70%. It is responsible for absorbing drops of fat, water, oil in cosmetics, and then from your face. It swells, is absorbed by the skin, adds Shine, expands the pores, and can cause blockage. Cyclopentasiloxane is a volatile silicone. It helps to wash away other silicones from other products from the hair. But in balms, it makes it easier to comb, makes hair smooth, covers them with a protective film and does not allow them to curl in the rain. A lot of hair products contain it in themselves, and it is also found in creams against wrinkles, cold protectors and Foundation creams. They write that it is not harmful to the body. And here is a small footnote that in rare cases causes eye and skin irritation. Zinc stearate — used as a filler in powders (up to 15% of the base), acts as a dye that binds all other ingredients. It can dry the skin and accumulate in the body. <..... >
Vaseline-a mixture of liquid and soft paraffin. In its pure form, it is unfavorable for the skin due to the formation of an insulating film on it; it is used less often in cosmetics. Mineral oil\paraffin oil\ paraffin (mineral oil\petrolatum\Paraffinum) – petrochemicals. It is popular in “smears” – creams, lotions, Butters, oils, lipsticks, and even hypoallergenic cosmetics. There are many articles on the Internet about mineral oil, where it is actively protected, because mineral oil is a barrier to our skin. The vital functions of the skin under this oil may be disrupted. The component has many supporters and as many opponents. I myself have two creams in the composition with this friend, one I will not apply even under threat of execution, with the other we have been friends for almost a year.